How dark is too dark?
Tint darkness simulator
Slide through 5%, 20%, 35%, 50%, and 70% on a rendered cabin and see heat rejection, UV block, and whether the shade is street legal in Utah at each step.
Open the tool →Vinyl wrap picker
Finish changes a colour more than most people expect — the same grey reads sporty in satin and industrial in matte. Pick a colour, switch between gloss, satin, and matte, toggle chrome delete, and the price range for that exact spec updates with it.
Color change is fully reversible. Your factory paint stays underneath, untouched and protected.
Try gloss, satin, matte, and colour-shift finishes on a body outline, then see the coverage options and what each one runs on a car versus a truck.
Gloss is the closest to factory paint and the most forgiving to live with. It can be polished if it stains, hides minor surface imperfections in the panel underneath, and looks wet in sunlight. It is also the least expensive of the three because the film is the most common.
Satin sits between gloss and matte and is the most popular finish we install. It reads as deliberate rather than loud, shows body lines better than gloss because it does not mirror the sky back at you, and photographs extremely well. It cannot be polished, so stains have to be prevented rather than fixed.
Matte is completely flat and the most dramatic of the three. It is also the highest-maintenance: fingerprints, fuel splash, and bird droppings all show, and none of it can be buffed out. Matte wants a matte-safe shampoo, prompt cleaning, and ideally a ceramic coating rated for matte film. If the car lives outside and gets washed occasionally, satin is the better decision.
Chrome delete is the highest-impact, lowest-cost thing you can do to a modern car. Window surrounds, badges, grille slats, and mirror caps get wrapped in gloss or satin black, and the car immediately looks a generation newer. It starts around $449 for window trim only, it is entirely reversible, and it does not touch paint — which matters on a lease. Toggle it in the tool to see the difference on the trim.
The single biggest difference between a wrap that lasts five years and one that lifts in eight months is whether the film was wrapped behind panel edges or tucked at them. Tucking is faster and cheaper; it also leaves the film edge exposed to pressure washers, car washes, and thermal cycling, and that edge is where failure starts.
Here, bumpers, door handles, lights, badges, and mirror caps come off, film wraps behind the edge, and everything goes back together. That is why a full colour change takes four to six days and most of it is disassembly and reassembly rather than laying film.
Vinyl adheres to the surface it is applied to, so that surface has to be sound. Peeling clear coat, filler, and cheap repaints will not hold film, and when the film is removed it will take the failing paint with it. We inspect before quoting and say so plainly if a panel is not a candidate. Factory paint in good condition is ideal, and the paint under a wrap generally comes out better than the paint around it, because it has been shielded from UV and light abrasion the whole time.
Wait a week before the first wash, hand wash from then on, skip brush washes entirely, and keep fuel splash off matte and satin film. Quality film runs five to seven years in Utah sun. Full pricing and the install process are on the vinyl wrap page, and if you are booking tint too, the wrap goes on first — tint comes after the car is back together.
Wrap questions
Not factory paint in good condition. Cast vinyl removes with heat and leaves the panel as it was — that is why lease customers and resale-minded owners use it instead of paint. Aftermarket respray work is the risk, and we inspect and tell you before quoting.
Five to seven years on vertical panels in Utah, less on the hood and roof because they take direct sun all day. Garaged cars do better. Gloss holds up longest; matte and satin need more careful washing to stay even.
Covering the factory bright trim — window surrounds, badges, grille slats, mirror caps — in gloss or satin black film. It is the highest-impact appearance change per dollar on most modern cars, and it comes back off if you want the chrome for resale.
Yes. Roof wraps, hood accents, mirror caps, stripes, and spoilers are all common. A satin black roof on a light-coloured car reads as a factory two-tone for a fraction of what paint costs.
Hand wash with pH-neutral soap. Skip brush washes entirely — the bristles catch edges and lift them. Keep pressure washers away from seams. Bug and fuel spills come off with a dedicated vinyl-safe cleaner, and sooner is much better than later.
Vinyl follows the surface underneath, so a chip shows as a dimple and a dent shows as a dent. Panels get corrected first, or you accept that the flaw will be visible. We photograph everything before we start so there is no argument later.
Yes — printed and laminated fleet graphics, partial branding, or full commercial wraps. Send artwork or we will lay out something from your logo. Fleet work is quoted per vehicle because van shapes vary so much.
Wrap if you want a colour you might reverse, a finish paint cannot easily do, or protection for the paint underneath. Paint if you want permanence and the panels need bodywork anyway. A quality wrap and a quality repaint are closer in price than most people expect.
More tools
Every tool runs in your browser. Nothing is stored and nothing is emailed unless you ask for a quote.
How dark is too dark?
Slide through 5%, 20%, 35%, 50%, and 70% on a rendered cabin and see heat rejection, UV block, and whether the shade is street legal in Utah at each step.
Open the tool →Which panels actually need film?
Pick impact, full front, track pack, or full body and watch the panels light up on a vehicle outline, with the price range and shop time for each package.
Open the tool →Is the 9 year coating worth it?
Compare the 2, 5, and 9 year systems side by side on durability, gloss, chemical resistance, and cost per year of protection instead of sticker price.
Open the tool →Will this offset poke or rub?
Move diameter, width, and offset and see the wheel move in and out of the fender, with poke and tuck called out in millimetres before you order anything.
Open the tool →How far off will my speedometer be?
Enter your stock size and a new size to get overall diameter, sidewall height, revolutions per mile, and exactly how far your speedometer will read off.
Open the tool →Get a number
Numbers on this page are honest estimates. Send the vehicle and the spec you settled on and you get a written price the same business day.