Everything ownersask before booking.

Window tint is about two hours for most cars and up to four for a Tesla with a full glass roof. Full-front paint protection film is two days. A ceramic coating with a single-stage correction is one to two days depending on how much correction the paint needs. Wheel and tire installs are same day.

A quote costs nothing. A deposit is only taken once you pick a date, because it orders your material — film patterns and wheels are bought per vehicle, not pulled off a shelf. The deposit comes off your final invoice.

Yes for tint and same-day wheel work. Film and coating jobs run one to seven days, so those are drop-offs. Tell us when you book and we will hold a slot that fits your schedule rather than ours.

Film is registered with the manufacturer in your name at handoff, which covers bubbling, peeling, cracking, delamination, and colour change. It is transferable if you sell the vehicle. Our labour is covered for as long as you own the car. Coatings carry the manufacturer durability term for the system you chose.

Constantly. Tint, film, and vinyl all come off without damaging factory paint or glass, which is exactly why lease customers use them. Tell us it is a lease and we will note it on the work order so removal at turn-in is straightforward.

On approved credit, for larger packages — wheel and tire sets, full-body film, and multi-service builds. Applications take a few minutes and will not hold up your appointment. Rates and terms change, so we quote them live rather than printing them here.

Yes. Old tint removal runs $25 to $50 per window depending on how badly the adhesive has baked on, and purple, bubbling film from the 2000s is the worst of it. Film removal is quoted after we see the panels, because a heat gun and patience is the only safe method.

Yes, and it is usually cheaper. Prep — the wash, decontamination, and photography — only happens once instead of two or three times. Check every service you are considering on the quote form and we will price it as a single job.

On a clean install you have to look for it. Edges are wrapped around the panel where the panel allows, so there is no line sitting in the middle of the paint collecting dirt. Where an edge has to be visible, it is placed on a body line where the eye already expects a break.

The top coat of the urethane is elastomeric, so light swirl marks and wash scratches close up with heat — sun on the panel, warm water, or a heat gun. It does not repair a cut that goes through the film or a rock strike that pierced it.

Rock chips come from the road, so the front bumper, the leading edge of the hood, the mirrors, and the headlights matter most. Full front adds the entire hood and both fenders and is the most common choice. Track pack adds rockers, A-pillars, and the roof leading edge for people who drive fast on open highway.

Ten years is the manufacturer warranty term on the films we install, and that covers yellowing, cracking, and delamination. Real-world life on a garaged car is longer. Utah sun and winter road salt are hard on everything, which is why we still recommend a coating over the film.

Yes, and it is a good idea on the front end of a colour change, because vinyl chips more easily than paint. It is quoted per vehicle because the vinyl has to be fully cured and the edges have to be planned so the film does not lift the wrap when it comes off.

Not on factory paint in good condition, removed with heat by someone who has done it before. Repainted panels are a different conversation — cheap respray work can lift, so we inspect and tell you honestly before we quote.

They solve different problems. Film is physical thickness that stops a rock from reaching the paint. Coating is chemistry that stops etching and makes washing faster. Most owners who care about the car run film on the front end and coating over everything, including on top of the film.

Wait seven days before a proper wash and skip pressure washing the edges for the first month. Any small moisture haze under the film clears as the adhesive cures. After that, wash it like paint.

Not factory paint in good condition. Cast vinyl removes with heat and leaves the panel as it was — that is why lease customers and resale-minded owners use it instead of paint. Aftermarket respray work is the risk, and we inspect and tell you before quoting.

Five to seven years on vertical panels in Utah, less on the hood and roof because they take direct sun all day. Garaged cars do better. Gloss holds up longest; matte and satin need more careful washing to stay even.

Covering the factory bright trim — window surrounds, badges, grille slats, mirror caps — in gloss or satin black film. It is the highest-impact appearance change per dollar on most modern cars, and it comes back off if you want the chrome for resale.

Yes. Roof wraps, hood accents, mirror caps, stripes, and spoilers are all common. A satin black roof on a light-coloured car reads as a factory two-tone for a fraction of what paint costs.

Hand wash with pH-neutral soap. Skip brush washes entirely — the bristles catch edges and lift them. Keep pressure washers away from seams. Bug and fuel spills come off with a dedicated vinyl-safe cleaner, and sooner is much better than later.

Vinyl follows the surface underneath, so a chip shows as a dimple and a dent shows as a dent. Panels get corrected first, or you accept that the flaw will be visible. We photograph everything before we start so there is no argument later.

Yes — printed and laminated fleet graphics, partial branding, or full commercial wraps. Send artwork or we will lay out something from your logo. Fleet work is quoted per vehicle because van shapes vary so much.

Wrap if you want a colour you might reverse, a finish paint cannot easily do, or protection for the paint underneath. Paint if you want permanence and the panels need bodywork anyway. A quality wrap and a quality repaint are closer in price than most people expect.

35% visible light transmission on front side windows, with a 5% variance allowed for meter calibration. The old 43% figure was superseded when the statute was amended in 2022, and shops still quoting 43% are working from stale information.

No darkness limit on rear side windows or the rear window, including limo shades, provided the vehicle has both left and right side mirrors. That is the whole reason the mirror requirement exists.

The full face of the windshield must transmit 70% or more, so in practice that means clear or near-clear ceramic film only. Above the AS-1 line — or the top four inches if your glass has no AS-1 marking — any darkness is permitted.

It is typically written as an equipment violation, which is a fix-it citation: you remove the film and provide proof of correction. Repeated stops on the same vehicle are treated less leniently, and a citation is generally issued by the officer at the roadside using a meter.

Yes. With physician certification for a condition requiring reduced light exposure, darker film is permitted. Keep the certification in the vehicle — an officer with a meter has no way to know about it otherwise.

No. Reflective, mirrored, and metallic-appearing film is prohibited on front and rear side glass regardless of how much light it transmits. Nano-ceramic film is non-reflective, so it is not an issue with anything we install.

If you are driving on Utah roads, Utah rules are what the officer measures against. A legal install in Arizona or Nevada does not exempt you here, and neither does a Utah address exempt you elsewhere. Register the car where you live and tint to the law where you drive.